Staying Safe in Mindanao

This post is actually a response to a comment we had on RTTP asking for an honest and true account of what it’s like to live in Mindanao as an expat. I thought the response deserved more attention and so have decided to publish it as a post.

Much of the advice that Mitchell offers is applicable to living anywhere in the Philippines and indeed any country where YOU are the foreigner and YOU are the visitor.

Here’s the response…

Hi Kevin,

Yes, I agree, there are conflicting reviews on the internet. Most of the negative comments are mostly from people who have never been to the region. For all intents and purposes, my looks are European, coming from a Spanish-French ancestry. I’ve learned to be part of the scenery. I can tell you how good Iligan and Cagayan is, but this would be biased, because I have family and friends in these areas.

The key word to your safety is to be a friend. There is a Canadian, Kyle “Kulas” Jennerman, who has been living in Cagayan de Oro for the last three years, and have traveled nearly all of Mindanao, mostly alone, sometimes with a friend. If you want to see videos of Iligan City and Cagayan de Oro, and Mindanao, and the rest of the Philippines, look for his facebook page, Becoming Filipino, or his website by the same name. Kulas has lots of videos. Youtube also have videos by locals of Iligan and “CDO”, as some people fondly call Cagayan.

I don’t know how old you are but age shouldn’t matter. Intent matters, because this will affect how people relate to you. If you’re travelling alone, some people will think that you’re there to find a “wife”, or sex. Be sober. If you’re a drinker, stay in hotels with security guards. Don’t be alarmed if the guards are armed.

Be a friend. Say “ma-ayong boontag” (good morning) ma-ayo means good “ma-ayong adlaw” (broad “a”) (good day), “ma-ayong gabi-i” (good evening or night). Say “salamat” (thank you), or “palihoog” (please)

Public transport is completely different to the UK. Everyone speaks English. It would be a good idea to familiarise yourself with the money and words used in relation to money. Taxi’s are available and expensive. Buses – take your pick, jeepneys are the most common, use jeepneys for the experience. Ask the driver to stop at a specific place and let him know that your not familiar. “Dili ko anad”.

Plan your daily trip. Ask for help from the locals. Trust your feelings about someone. There are opportunistic people, like anywhere else. Smile always. A grumpy face attract grumpy people.

Don’t be demanding – always say please.

Do not flash your money/wallet. Only have enough money for the day’s trip. A thick billfold, bulging and visible while in your pocket, will attract people.

Pre-book your accommodation. Don’t assume, ask, if you’re thinking of a specific thing like air-conditioning and room service.

Dress like the locals. By this I mean – don’t flash your western name branded clothes. Some locals will dress like that. But that’s them, and they’re local.

Iligan and Cagayan de Oro are full of Westerners. More so in Cebu.

Depends what you want to see or experience. You haven’t really asked any question. I can be more specific. Your mention of “home office” tells me you’re not a “regular” traveler.

I don’t have a business. I have nothing to promote other than how beautiful the place and people of Iligan and Cagayan are. Be a beautiful person, and the beauty of the place will be revealed to you by the locals.

Never a good idea to broadcast your trip/itinerary on the internet. The aussie that got kidnapped about three years ago was a victim of circumstances. He was married to a local – had an argument – upset some people – kidnappings can be arranged. He also wrote about his trips around the world. Naturally, some people thought that he was rich, and a target.

Be a friend. Be visible. Go where there are a lot of people. People are most likely to help you, and protect you from other opportunistic people, if you are a friend.

If you’re only travelling between Iligan and Cagayan, visit their city government’s respective websites. There are plenty of sand and seas and rivers to enjoy. People are friendly, if you are friendly.

yours,

Mitchell Badelles

If you have any specific questions for Mitchell then please feel free to post them in the comments below. Please keep your comments short and to the point as the comment section is not the place for lengthy posts and explanations.

Thanks for your understanding and have a great time in the Philippines!

Staying Safe in Mindanao

Christmas in the Philippines

“Maligayang Pasko Sa Inyong Lahat” or Merry Christmas to Everyone!

The typical Filipino does not need much of an excuse to celebrate and party. Christmas in the Philippines is no exception. The manifestations of the onset of Christmas start here as early as September. That is when you first notice the street vendors and stalls selling their Christmas lighting and decorations. It is a sight particularly noticeable after dusk when you cannot fail to see the twinkling, flashing lights of reindeers and other Christmas paraphernalia.

There is no room here for “bah humbug” type sentiments I used to hear back in the UK – “Oh – I can’t get in the mood for Christmas” type of comment. I suggest if you can’t align yourself with the wonderful Filipino festive mood and traditions then either move or lock yourself indoors for several months!

Pasko

Christmas or “Pasko”, is traditional here in the Philippines for two very good reasons. One being the Spanish influence and the introduction of Catholicism to these islands. Secondly, it is an example of what Filipinos do best of all – look after their family. When you merge the two, then it is no wonder that Christmas is a long season here full of fun, love, the giving of gifts, paying respect to elders, eating and of course celebrating the meaning of Christmas. The Philippines is unique in Asia in that it is a predominantly Christian country.

The celebration of Christmas in the Philippines begins on the 16th of December and ends on the first Sunday of January which is the Feast of the Epiphany (The Three Kings). It is quite different from the other countries of the world. It is the longest of the Philippines festivities stretching for over 3 weeks. This makes the Filipino Christmas celebration one of the longest Christmas seasons in the world. A rich tradition which, as I say, dates back to the Spanish period.

This is also the time of the year when family get together, especially when family members from overseas come home with lots of gifts called “pasalubong.” The exchanging of gifts and the family feast are the highlights of this most loved of celebrations.

Just like in Europe and the United States, you will see some houses adorned with Christmas lighting. That, and the street vendors selling their Christmas decorations, is when you first realize that Christmas is getting near. These are some of the other features of a typical Filipino Christmas, some are familiar to the foreigner and others not so familiar –

Carol Singing

By around late November or early December you’ll be pleasantly surprised when some children and even adults turn up at your gate singing Christmas Carols. It’s delightful and they are in tune! Give them a few pesos and a hearty, friendly Merry Christmas and all is well with the world.

Simbang Gabi

Simbang Gabi, or Night Mass, is a nine day Roman Catholic ritual novena ending on December 24. In fact, it is a devotional series of masses to honor the Blessed Virgin Mary and in anticipation of Christmas. They are held early in the morning between 3 am – 5 am and culminate in the Misa de Gallo, or Roosters mass.

Parol – Filipino Christmas Lantern

As early as November, Filipinos’ houses, offices, and schools, as well as the shopping malls and even streets are adorned with these star-shaped multicolored lanterns. It makes for a colorful spectacle.

The Giving and Exchanging of Gifts

One of the Filipino traditions during Christmas is the exchange of gifts between families or friends. A simple way of exchanging gifts is bringing a gift to the office or school Christmas party of which the amount is agreed upon by the participants.

There are variations on this theme and in offices for example, it is usual for the exchange to take place over three days. The first day is something red, then something green. The third day can be inventive like something sweet and even something gross! (Don’t ask!) This exchanging of gifts is called Kris Kringle or the Monito/Monita.

I am informed that there are differences between these two systems of exchange but I fear it was lost on me in translation! This Pinoy system is a modification of the Secret Santa (certain western countries), Kris Kringle or Christkindl (German), Sinter Klass in Dutch, Father Christmas in England and Pere Noel in France.

Noche Buena

The Noche Buena (literally meaning “Good Night”) in the Philippines is a much-anticipated traditional Christmas Eve feast and eaten after the Midnight Mass when the family return home from mass.

Noche Buena is a very special occasion for Filipinos. They often use their best china and silverware and cook their best family favorite recipe. The most popular dishes are morcon, embutido, relyenong bangus, lumpia, pancit, and for those who can afford it – the lechon or roasted pig.

Suman Sa Ibos or Sumang Pasko (glutinous rice wrapped in banana leaves or coconut leaves) served with Halayang Ube and leche flan (egg custard) are the most popular desserts.

Noche Buena is a statement of the Filipino Family close ties. It is not only about food; it is a family tradition.

Christmas Day

Once again, Christmas Day in The Philippines is primarily a family affair. For those who were not able to attend the Midnight Mass, there are masses celebrated during the day and usually in the late afternoon. Most families with young children usually attend this mass. Children wear their new clothes and shoes to go to mass and after the mass, they visit members of the extended family, notably the elders in order to pay their respect.

Pagmamano

This custom called “Pagmamano” has been an age-old tradition in the Philippines and is accomplished by a child placing the forehead to the elder’s hand and saying, “Mano Po”, a term of respect. The elder then blesses the person who paid respect. “Aguinaldo” is a response by the elder and can be in the form of a gift or money given after the Pagmamano, most usually to the younger children.

Christmas Lunch

This is usually a reunion of family members accompanied by yet another special meal. Christmas Day is a time for children to visit their uncles, aunts, godmothers and godfathers. Usually children are presented with a gift, candy, money or toys. Kids love to count their “aguinaldos” as they go about on the Christmas round of visits.

Christmas in the Philippines is ultimately about family closeness and kinship and is one more reflection on the importance of family in this country.

Maligayang Pasko Sa Inyong Lahat!

Christmas in the Philippines

Banking in the Philippines

You have now made your move and decided to relocate to the Philippines. You will obviously want to have easy access to your money which is almost certainly paid into your bank back home. To do that, you will want to open a bank account here in the Philippines. Which bank should you choose here? A large, reputable bank is preferable.

All the major banks here all have slightly different rules and processes to open that bank account. There are many types of bank accounts including foreign currency deposit accounts. It falls outside of my expertise to advise you on which type of account you need so I suggest you research that and seek professional advice.

Opening an Account in the Philippines

The general principles in opening an account are that you will have to show proof of ID and provide residence details. Many banks will refuse to open an account if you are on a tourist visa without the ACR card. Once you have that card, then there should be no difficulty opening an account. The process at the bank can take as little as 30 minutes or so and you usually have to wait several business days before you revisit the bank to collect your new debit card. Again, the rules differ from bank to bank, but generally you have to be a customer of the bank for at least 6 months and have a land-line in your name before you can apply for a credit card. I would suggest checking the web sites of all the major banks in the Philippines before you visit your local branch in order to open your account.

Keep your Bank and Credit Cards Back Home

The solid advice from the experts, which I endorse, is to keep your current primary account back home. It’s also a good idea to keep one or two of your home country’s credit cards active too. What about your address back home? Find a good friend or family member who is willing to receive your bank and credit card statements at their address. You can always check your statements online.

So what are the reasons for keeping a “financial footprint” back home? Simple really! You never know what the future holds in store. What if you decide to move back home, or are forced to because of reasons totally out of your control? Your accounts back home, whether bank or credit cards, will ensure you maintain your credit score. It’s a good idea to use your cards now and again for say online purchases, as it doesn’t matter where you now live but shows you are “financially alive and kicking”. In the event of a repatriation, voluntary or otherwise, this should ensure you encounter no problems with items like mortgages, car loans and almost anything else that requires borrowing money.

One of the advantages I found with retaining my home country issued cards was when I was dealing with the Apple Store. I discovered that using a Philippines issued bank card, whether debit or credit, locked me out of certain features of the store. Purely as an aside, it’s also worth considering a VPN to change your location to your home country to further ensure you benefit from features with online retailers that apply to citizens of the United States and the United Kingdom for example, but not to citizens of other countries. Yes, I know that’s discriminatory but please accept that I don’t make the rules!

A further consideration is this: there will be occasions you need to send money to friends or family back home and it’s far easier and cheaper to do this if both parties, you and the recipient, have accounts in the same country. Forget checks! A check drawn on foreign banks can take a long time to clear and it’s not unheard of for such checks not to be accepted at all by banks in the United States or the United Kingdom. Yet another advantage is that your U.S. or U.K. card also has a far greater chance of being accepted at any ATM wherever you travel in the world.

Online Banking

It’s not difficult to track and manage your home based accounts in this digital age. The days of trusting a close friend or family member to take care of your finances back home in your absence have long gone. Using any established bank or other financial institution, enables you to pay any kind of bill from your home country online and schedule money transfers to any individual or organization you wish in the same country as your home account. All it takes is a few clicks on the bank website after you go through the security log in procedures.

But to return to your Philippines bank account – the best advice is to keep sufficient in your new account for your regular payments in your new country. It’s also wise to have a separate savings account with the same bank as your “rainy day” money or “slush fund”. However, it’s also the wise man that keeps the substantial part of his savings in the financial institutions of his home country owing to the enhanced stability of the banking system in countries such as the United States and the United Kingdom. There are better protective measures in place for savers in the more financially stable countries of the world. Another reason to keep more of your nest egg back home is to do with stable currencies and interest rates. Historically and over the long term many western currencies have been far less volatile than some third world countries. Many savings vehicles back in your home country pay a rate of interest even some checking accounts.

International Money Transfers

You still need to transfer your home based money to your Philippines account. By far the easiest way to do this is by using one of the many companies that specialize in international currency transfers. Like your online banking, this is also done with a few clicks of the mouse. If you shop around you will find out which are the most reliable, speediest and cheapest. You should closely examine the fees that are charged in conjunction with your actual rate of exchange. It’s no good transferring say $1000 for only a flat fee of say $2 then finding out you are not receiving a competitive exchange rate. Of course, these companies have to make a profit but make sure it’s not at your expense!

I’m sure these tips will save you a few dollars if implemented correctly. If you bump into me and that is the case, then buy me a cold beer!

Banking in the Philippines

Dirty Kitchen? Is that Where You Eat Dirty Ice Cream?

Any foreigner new to the Philippines whether tourist or not will soon hear the terms ‘dirty kitchen’ and ‘dirty ice cream.’

It was during my house hunting that I first heard ‘dirty kitchen.’ I was genuinely puzzled. The words were uttered with pride and an inner satisfaction which added to my puzzlement. How on earth could someone be proud of a ‘dirty kitchen’? It conjured up images of cockroaches and rat infestation in my western head. Thank goodness I could not have been any further wide of the mark.

A ‘dirty kitchen’ is such a great idea. It is practical too. I’m sure its origins lie in the days when all cooking was done on an open fire fueled by wood or maybe coal if available. There was no bottled gas or electric stoves back then.

Many Advantages of a Dirty Kitchen

The first advantage of the outdoor cooking is safety particularly if an open fire is used, as it still is in many areas of the Republic. I have heard it said that it derives its name owing to the fact that dirt or soil was used as the base for the open fire. The other fairly obvious advantages are that it isolates cooking smells and smoke from the inside of the home. Many Filipino dishes are fried in oil in the stove top pan. Fried fish will stink the house out if not cooked outside in the dirty kitchen. A bonus is that the heat generated from the cooking is also kept outside. A factor not to be sniffed at in a tropical climate.

Another way of looking at the dirty kitchen is that it is a bit like an outside BBQ area with the emphasis on practical as opposed to some of the clinically clean BBQs I have seen in the United States. I have seen outside BBQ areas in California that would put a top class restaurant kitchen to shame with the amount of stainless steel used!

You will find the dirty kitchen in both rural and urban areas of the Philippines. The rural version will more than likely be the wood fueled variety with the likes of mango trees, coconut shells and talisay being the mainstay of the fuel. It is said that the wood adds flavor to the cooked meat or fish. That is easy to believe! The urban cousin will invariably be fueled by gas hooked up to a two, three or four burner stove.

Dirty Ice Cream

Like a ‘dirty kitchen’ the term ‘dirty ice cream’ was new to my foreign ears. Once again I was thinking who would want to eat contaminated ice cream? The ‘dirty ice cream’ man or sorbetero can be regularly seen on my sub division as he pedals his bicycle and rings his hand held bell to announce his presence. A more pleasant sound than the monotonous chimes heard coming from the ice cream vans to be found all over the UK. Sorbeteros are also to be seen pushing around their brightly colored carts. Whether cart or a bicycle the ice cream will be kept cold in a metal container using shaved ice and salt to keep the temperature as low and as long as possible. Your serving of the cooling dessert could be in a cup, cone or even in a bread bun.

Traditional Philippine Process

On speaking to the older generation here I discovered the process of making the ‘dirty ice cream’. Or at least how it used to be made. It involved the use of a wooden bucket filled with ice. Inside that bucket was a metal cylinder that contained the liquid ice cream ingredients. The cylinder was connected to a handle which was turned by hand until the mixture reached its desired consistency. The turning would take an hour or so of churning therefore it was common for all the family to lend a hand.

The Philippines is noted for its variety of ice cream flavors and some of them are really traditional – mantecado (Spanish crumble cake) ube queso helado (a kind of iced cheese with the distinctive purple coloring of ube), pinipig (a topping made from rice), nangka (jackfruit) and salted caramel.

The traditional basic ingredients of true ‘dirty ice cream’ are carabao milk and eggs. Coconut milk and cassava flour are commonly used to give it a distinctive flavor. The homemade variety of ice cream is known as ‘dirty’ to differentiate it from the store variety or ‘clean’ ice cream. I enjoy ‘dirty ice cream’ but must admit to some trepidation on my first tasting. I survived and I am sure you will too.

The answer to the question in the title is entirely up to you. I am sure you will enjoy the products of both the ‘dirty kitchen’ and ‘dirty ice cream’ where ever you eat!

Dirty Kitchen? Is that Where You Eat Dirty Ice Cream?

Travel Advisories for the Philippines

Sometimes in life someone gives you a nudge towards an idea to write an article. Often that idea is overtaken by real events and even tragedy. That was certainly the case when RTTP suggested to me I may wish to write a piece based on the Philippines military launching an offensive in an attempt to capture Islamic militants in the south of the country. These foreign militants were reported as assisting their Abu Sayyaf rebel allies in bomb making techniques. These terrorists are said to have links to Al Qaeda extremists and to originate from either Malaysia or Indonesia. The Abu Sayyaf rebel group is based in the remote regions of Sulu province and the nearby island of Basilan.

The Most Recent Kidnapping of Foreigners

The real event and  tragedy occurred just a short time after this military offensive. On Monday September 21 2015 gunmen kidnapped two Canadian tourists, a Norwegian resort manager and a Filipino woman from a resort on the Island Garden of Samal. The island is noted for its natural beauty, white sand beaches and a thriving diving industry. It was believed that the gun-toting terrorists used a banca or pumpboat to access the resort and make good their escape with the hostages to the island of Basilan.

Samal is close to the city of Davao in Mindanao and only takes about 1 ½ hours to drive the 45 kilometer route. Davao is a major city in Mindanao and home to a substantial number of expats. Samal to Basilan would take about 13 hours in a car to cover the 750 kilometers distance. I have no experience of sailing but I do know it would take quite a long sea journey to reach Basilan in a small outrigger boat. The island of Mindanao has been the scene of many years of insurgency by various Islamic groups based in the south of that island. Hostage taking has long been a tactic of these terrorist groups in order to raise funds by demanding ransoms be paid in exchange for their prisoners.

These terrorists in the south of the country are believed to be still holding a number of hostages including a Dutch bird watcher who was abducted nearly 3 years ago. The hostages taken in the raid on the Samal resort include two Canadians, one of whom lived and worked in the Philippines as a mining consultant, the Filipina wife of one of the Canadians and the Norwegian manager of the Samal resort. A regional military spokesperson was reported as saying, “ It appeared the foreigners were the targets, they were not taken at random.”

Foreigners Ignore Travel Advisories

No one in their right mind could condone any form of terrorism and in particular this incident of hostage taking. However  it seems strange that foreigners appear to blatantly ignore travel advisories warning against travel in this part of the Philippines. I accept that different foreign governments issue slightly differing advice. For example there is a contrast between the advisories issued by the US and the UK governments. The UK government has a long history of erring on the side of caution when wording its warnings. On this occasion it appears to have been completely justified.

UK Travel Warning

It states in the simplest terms:

The Foreign and Commonwealth Office (FCO) advise against all travel to south-west Mindanao and the Sulu archipelago because of on-going terrorist activity and clashes between the military and insurgent groups. The FCO advise against all but essential travel to the remainder of Mindanao for the same reasons…….

There is a high threat from terrorism, including kidnapping ….

Around 133,665 British nationals visited the Philippines in 2014. Most visits are trouble-free.

You can read the full advisory by visiting the UK government website.

US Travel Warning

In contrast the US Department of State issued a more verbose warning.

Essentially it warns US citizens on the risks of travel in certain areas particularly the Sulu Archipelago, “certain regions and cities of the island of Mindanao and the southern Sulu Sea area.” It correctly identifies the risk reflecting the high threat of kidnapping of international travelers and warns against non-essential travel in the Sulu Archipelago. It goes on to warn about continuing to –

exercise extreme caution if traveling to certain regions and cities of the island of Mindanao.  Separatist and terrorist groups continue to conduct bombings, kidnappings and attacks against civilians, political leaders, and Philippine security forces.  In particular, the Bangsamoro Islamic Freedom Fighters (BIFF) remain active in the Cotabato City area, and in the Maguindanao, North Cotabato, and Sultan Kudarat provinces, where the government maintains a state of emergency and a greater police presence.  There have been no recent reported terrorist threats or incidents within the Davao City or Surigao city limits.  There have been no reports of U.S. citizens in Mindanao targeted specifically for their nationality; however, general threats to U.S. citizens and other foreigners throughout Mindanao remain a concern.

Canadian Travel Warning

In light of the fact that two Canadians had been kidnapped I also checked the advisory issued by the Canadian government.

It had been updated owing to the Samal kidnapping and said this:

There is no nationwide advisory in effect for the Philippines. However, you should exercise a high degree of caution due to an ongoing terrorist threat to Westerners and Western interests.

Foreign Affairs, Trade and Development Canada advises against all travel to the Autonomous Region in Muslim Mindanao (consisting of Basilan, Sulu, Tawi-Tawi, Lanao del Sur and Maguindanao provinces), as well as to the Zamboanga Peninsula and the provinces of Sarangani, Lanao del Norte, Davao del Norte, Davao del Sur (excluding urban areas of Davao City), Davao Occidental, Davao Oriental, Cotabato, South Cotabato, and Sultan Kudarat, due to the serious threat of terrorist attacks and kidnapping. The Government of Canada’s ability to provide consular assistance may be limited in this region.

It is a similar warning to that of the UK advisory but not as succinct and makes it clear that the urban areas of Davao City are an exception to the rule.

This is not a debate about the relative merits of the warnings from the US and UK governments. I am well aware of the fact that many of you reading this are American. You may be aware I am British. We have much in common and a shared history of standing together against the tyrants and the opponents of democracy. Our respective governments and brave military men and women are also in the vanguard of the struggle to contain and defeat Islamic fundamentalism and its associated terrorism.

However it has to be said that I do have a preference for the succinct wording of the UK warning as opposed to the somewhat verbose American advisory. It is extremely wordy and what is worse it is vague. It uses the phrase “certain regions and cities” and is not as specific as either the UK or Canadian versions. The use of the map by the UK government is to be applauded. It makes it ultra-clear where the two categories of advice apply.

Look at the map issued by the UK government posted above. The red denotes a real ‘no-go’ area. The mustard yellow says only for “essential travel.” In effect it really means ‘do not enter and if you must then at your own peril’!

The Philippines is Safe

I know that many of you living here in the Philippines will probably respond with a ‘he doesn’t know what he’s talking about.’ Fine – that’s your opinion and if you have lived safely in let’s say Davao City for many years of course I can see your point of view. But let us not forget Samal is only a short ride away from Davao City. It was the scene of a terrorist outrage only a few short days ago. Britain has quite a long history of suffering from terrorist attacks and the population has learned to be vigilant at all times. It may serve as good practice to be also vigilant at all times even if you feel totally safe in Davao City. Remember this – terrorists will strike where it is least expected. I wish the kidnapped foreigners all the good will in the world. I also wish that they had taken more notice of what the British government has been warning travelers about.

A final word to the potential retiree to the Philippines – this is a peaceful and wonderful country to live in. Of course it has its fair share of problems and personal safety issues. In this article I have highlighted the risks in Mindanao but it obviously does not reflect upon the Philippines as a whole. The people in the Philippines are noted for their charm, friendliness and hard work. I like many other expats have always felt both safe and welcome here. But I have no intention of putting my head in the lion’s mouth.

Travel Advisories for the Philippines